Nosy – Kitchen 388, Take Two

photo: Christina Mitchell

When Kitchen 388 opened last summer, I discovered an incredibly flaky poptart and the egg sandwich of my dreams – so you can imagine my reaction when I found out the breakfast and lunch cafe closed for a month-long winter break in December.  February came and went and then I started to get worried. Luckily, East Bay Express passed on the good news that chef-owner Joseph Dunbar was planning to reopen in the beginning of May, this time focusing on dinner.  I stopped by last week and tried the wonderfully satisfying Chicken Confit with Kamut, Blue Lake Green Beans and Charmoula ($14).   It was a thoughtful dish, with the textures and flavors in perfect harmony.  I asked the server to suggest a wine, and while I didn’t have any complaints about the pinot noir itself, it was fighting with the dish instead of adding to it.  There’s got to be a better pairing for that beautiful chicken.

During my visit, I found out about a few new developments.  Sunday brunch started a couple weeks ago, and the egg sandwich is on the menu.  Sadly, the poptart is not.  Kitchen 388 is also serving food at Room 389,  the bar across the street.  Apparently, if you’re at the bar, you can call in your order until the kitchen closes around 9:30.  Here’s the bar menu:

Grilled Cheese Sandwich with cheddar, caramelized red onions & tomato on Acme bread ($7)
Kitchen 388 Meatball Sandwich with provolone cheese on an Acme bun ($8)
BLT&A thick-cut bacon, organic lettuce, tomato and avocado on Acme bread ($8)
Crispy Chicken Drumstick & Thigh with dill potato salad ($9)

388 Grave Ave, Oakland
510-893-3005

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