I spent a couple hours learning about classic, casual Tribune Tavern the other day. It’s a restaurant opening in the former Oakland Tribune office building TONIGHT! Restaurateur Chris Pastena (Chop Bar, Lungomare) introduced me to his partners Temoor Noor (Grand Tavern) and Tom Henderson (San Francisco Regional Center) and gave me a tour of the gorgeous space. It’s decorated with reclaimed wood and unique light fixtures created by local artists. Actually the artist that created the stained glass is a Chop Bar customer.
Along with eight beers on tap, there are also two hand pumps to serve Linden Street Beer the way it was served in the early 1900s at 55 degrees. Chop Bar was the first place in the area to serve wine on tap, and of course it will also be served at Tribune Tavern. It’s this same innovation that’s being extended to the rest of the bar program. Bar manager Paul Christensen (Plum Bar, Haven) showed me the Alchemy Lab aka the corner of the kitchen that’s stocked with jars of obscure ingredients and used exclusively by the bar. This is kind of unheard of but bartenders will be scheduled for shifts to create almost everything in house: bitters, tinctures, liqueurs, falernum and soda. You guys, they’re making root beer! The goal is to pay respect to the original traditions, while updating them with a twist.
There’s also a comfortable looking dining room and the talented Chef Huw Thornton is in charge of that menu. I first tasted his cooking at the short lived Locanda da Eva, but his 10 years of experience also includes positions at A16 and SPQR. It’s definitely a meat-centric menu but it accommodates vegetarians as well. The chef’s English and Welsh background is highlighted, along with American specialties in three sections: Potted, Spreadable or Sliced Meats, Smaller (appetizers) and Bigger (entrees). All of the food is meant to be paired with beer, wine and cocktails and some of the standouts include Pork Belly Rillette ($7), Welsh Rarebit (beer and cheese fondue, $10) and Shepherd’s pie (lamb mince, braised beef, English peas, broiled Parmesean mash, $16). Pastry Chef Jarrod Nash continues the tavern theme on the dessert menu with Sticky Toffee Pudding and Knickerbocker Glory with vanilla ice cream, raspberry jello (!), raspberry meringue and a wafer cookie.
At Tribune Tavern, it’s possible to have a quick, casual meal or a special occasion steak dinner….sounds like the best of both worlds. The restaurant opens tonight for dinner, with plans to start lunch service in a couple weeks.
401 13th St, Oakland
510-452-TRIB
Christina Mitchell
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