In getting ready for my 5th anniversary, I went through my archives and found some unpublished content from 2009. It was interesting to read the posts 5 years later and reflect on what’s happened between now and then, so I decided to share.
This is the story of when I first went Bocanova to celebrate a friend’s birthday. Five years later, it’s still an anchor in Jack London Square, which has been slowly developing. The Market is still empty, but Haven, Lungomare, Nido, Forge, and Plank have opened since then. Bocanova was the first of the new generation of restaurants and the owners also recently opened Jack’s Oyster Bar & Fish House around the corner.
photo: Diane Bezucha
October 14, 2009: I don’t usually like to follow the crowd. So when everyone was writing about Bocanova before it opened on September 1, I decided to start my little blog by writing about another restaurant. Yup, that was the plan. Until last Tuesday.
Last Tuesday was my friend’s birthday, and she decided to go to Bocanova, a Pan-American restaurant, to celebrate. Located across from Jack London Market (that’s opening in the spring) and next to the harbor, they serve food from all over Latin America. The vibe was relaxed with light streaming through huge windows, there was interesting art decorating the walls and glass light fixtures hanging from the ceiling.
photo by Diane Bezucha
After a few hours and an epic meal, that plan went out the window.
We were warned that the cocktails sometimes take a while to prepare because the juices are freshly squeezed to order. And fresh they were. The floral Raspberry Beret ($13) was refreshing, but my favorite was the not-to-sweet and not-to-tart Red Passion Margarita ($12).
Literally a few minutes after ordering, trios of small plates topped with vibrant food paraded out of the kitchen. And for the next couple hours, we were engrossed in a journey of textures, flavors and colors. Somehow, Bocanova seemed to update and modernize dishes, while still respecting tradition.
photo: Christina Mitchell
The silky Albacore Crudo ($9), crisp Dungeness Crab, Heirloom Pole Bean & Tomato Salad ($10) and smoky Sweet Potato & Chipotle Gratin ($6) were all as flavorful as they were beautiful. The Prather Ranch Mini-Burgers ($9) were slathered in a tangy avocado guasaca sauce and covered with a toasted bun. They were so satisfying, we ordered them twice! The Sea of Cortez Scallops ($15) were cooked perfectly and served with an earthy Brazilian curry sauce topped with crisp veggies. Enhanced with the flavor of pork, the Organic Black Bean Soup ($7) was velvety smooth and garnished with tortilla chips. Unfortunately, the tortilla under the Petrale Sole Seafood Taco ($14) was soggy by the time I tasted it. The fish and vegetables were definitely fresh, but almost boring compared to everything else. The other dishes all had a clever twist, but it felt like we had tasted this one many times before.
Our server was very friendly and knowledgeable, but there were some mix ups, although nothing unusual for a new restaurant.
After an amazing meal like this, only an excellent pastry chef would be able to make us forget the high quality food we had just experienced. The desserts were so impressive, our group proceeded to get louder and more ridiculous with each bite. My side of the table shared the Warm Chocolate Croissant Bread Pudding with Mexican chocolate ice cream ($8). It wasn’t dense like traditional bread pudding. Instead, it was so silky and luscious it couldn’t have been sliced. The creaminess was emphasized by the crunchy, flaky bits on top and the scoop of intense Mexican chocolate ice cream took it to the next level.
photo: Christina Mitchell
I was only allowed half a spoonful of the Local Organic Cheesecake with fresh strawberries, passionfruit caramel sauce & corn tuile ($8), which wasn’t like those dense slices you normally see. This one was round, extremely light in texture and anchored by a delicate graham cracker crust. But the sauce is what prompted the birthday girl to protectively put her arms around the bowl. From the 2 drops I was able to steal when she wasn’t looking, I could taste the super fresh strawberries and the passion fruit caramel sauce added a unique complexity. It was stunning.
To no one in particular, she blurted out: “I found the effing truth!!! It’s in a bowl at Bocanova.” Another friend spoke directly to the bread pudding: “I’m going to tear you up!!!” When the server came to check on us, I simply asked for the pastry chef’s phone number.
55 Webster, Oakland
510-444-1233
Christina Mitchell
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