photo: Christina Mitchell
Duende, a new Spanish restaurant, opened last month and I met Food Hoe and Ben of Focus Snap Eat there for dinner the other day. We started with cocktails (all $9) – the Finch (Rye, Montenegro Amaro, Red Vermouth, Orange Bitter) was light and complex, while the Suffering Bastard (Brandy, Gin, Lime Cordial, Ginger, Angostura) was more subtle and intense. Literally, everything on Chef Paul Canales’ Tapas menu looked amazing but we narrowed it down with some help from the server: the crispy Txiperones (Baby Squid, Frisée, Slow Cooked Egg, $13.50), creamy Ensalada de Col (Savoy Cabbage, Mahón, Green Olives, Pistachios, $11.50) and spicy Lenguas y Orejas (Pork Tongues & Ears, Salsa Diablo, $10.50) and my favorite, the savory-sweet Pebrots Farcits (Stuffed Piquillos, Lamb, Currants, Cumin, Pine Nuts, $12.50). The Raciones are slightly larger plates that can serve one person, but we ended up sharing the hearty Botifarra (Sweet Sausage, Emergo Beans, Spinach, Turnips, $16.50). The server suggested the flavorful Fideua (Duck, Wild Nettles, Olives, Balsamico), which is actually paella made with pasta instead of rice. For dessert, we shared the silky Chocolate Tart (with Ginger Poached Pears, Crème fraîche, $9). Every component was perfectly executed and the sum was even greater than its parts. All in all, my experience at Duende was a good one, but also kind of expensive. Maybe next time, instead of Tapas, I’ll order something from the Raciones part of the menu. Or I might just stop in the adjoining Bodega for a glass of wine and a small plate or two.
468 19th St, Oakland
510-893-0174
Christina Mitchell
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