Dinner at Corso was one of the best meals I’ve had all year. Here’s why.

It’s saying something if I can still remember my meal at Trattoria Corso, when it first opened six years ago, right?  The memory’s a little hazy, but there was an herby mushroom pizza and an intense chocolate dessert, so it was pretty exciting when I was invited to meet the new chef and have dinner at the restaurant.

My friend and I ended up having a beautiful dinner, which was one of the best meals I’ve had all year.  Just to give you some context, the last time I said that was a year ago.  Everything was simple, but complex and perfectly executed.  The dishes were interesting, and traditional with a twist.  Corso would be a great place to celebrate a special occasion or just dinner a Wednesday.

You know when there are too many dishes that look good on the menu and you can’t decide?  That happened to us, so we just asked the server and chef to send us whatever they thought we should try.  What followed was a seemingly endless parade of absolute deliciousness.  It was magical.

Bar Manager Justin Sutton told me about some of interesting techniques he’s experimenting with, so we tried two of his cocktails; both were really well done.  The Bees Knees (City of London gin, wildflower honey shrub, lemon juice, $10) was light and refreshing and, the Arrugginito Negroni (House-oaked gin, Carpano Antica, Gran Classico bitter, $12) was more intense and complex.

The delicate flavors and textures in the House-cured Salumi plate ($16) were stunning.  What a way to begin a meal….

photo: Christina Mitchell

photo: Christina Mitchell

Chef Scott told me about the Bruschetta (with toybox tomatoes, Bufala mozzarella, basil, smoked eggplant, balsamic, red onion, $10) when we met before dinner.  The smoked eggplant might sound weird, but it made perfect sense after the first bite.  Imagine the best bruschetta of your life, and then add gentle smokiness to the foundation.  Wow…just wow.

photo: Christina Mitchell

photo: Christina Mitchell

The chickpea puree in the Zuppa (with garlic, marash pepper, $10) was thick and luscious, while the sauteed white shrimp were plump and juicy.  I would have put my face in the bowl if I wasn’t in public.

photo: Christina Mitchell

photo: Christina Mitchell

Right when I started to crave raw veggies, the fresher than fresh Mixta (gem lettuces, radicchio, Early Girl tomatoes, mozzarella, olives, haricot vert, dill ($11) arrived.

photo: Christina Mitchell

photo: Christina Mitchell

The Tonnarelli (Marin Sun Farms lamb ragu, summer savory, rosemary, chili flake, $16) was a stunner…perfectly cooked house-made pasta, laced with tender lamb, and packed with flavor.

photo: Christina Mitchell

photo: Christina Mitchell

Surprisingly, I liked the vegetarian Orecchiette (Rosa Bianca eggplant, tomato confit, garlic, basil, ricotta salata, $15) even more!  Incredible flavor was coaxed out of the caramelized vegetables, and then a sprinkle of cheese and herbs woke the dish up with a pop of freshness.

photo: Christina Mitchell

photo: Christina Mitchell

The Pollo Al Burro Alla Sostanza (Hoffman Farms butter-roasted chicken breast, lemon, $15) was designed after a dish the owners had in Italy, and it’s one of the few things that stay on the menu all year. It’s just a chicken breast, but it’s cooked with tons of butter and then a squeeze of lemon juice brightens it up.  Crispy skin, juicy meat and did I mention the butter?  There would probably be a riot if they ever tried to take it off the menu.

photo: Christina Mitchell

photo: Christina Mitchell

I probably wouldn’t have ordered the Cavolo (Tuscan kale, cranberry beans, Early Girl tomatoes, chilies, bread crumbs, $9) so I’m so glad they sent it over with the chicken.  Eating that side made me feel like I was in a grandmother’s kitchen.

photo: Christina Mitchell

photo: Christina Mitchell

By the way, we asked our server to pair half glasses of wine with each course.  I don’t know that much about Italian wine, but the list looked well-curated.  It would take some time, but I could work my way through the wine list, and learn about all of the uncommon varietals along the way.  You can order by the bottle, carafe, glass or half glass, so it’s great to have so many options.

photo: Christina Mitchell

photo: Christina Mitchell

Even after that epic feast, we couldn’t leave without dessert.  The silky Panna Cotta with Golden Raspberries was refreshing, but I’m a chocolate lover so I had to order the Budino to see if it was as good as the one I remembered from six years ago.  Let’s just say I like my desserts dark, fudgy and intense, and this was everything I wanted and more.  Sigh…

1788 Shattuck Ave, Berkeley

510-704-8004

Christina Mitchell

Christina Mitchell

Christina is the founder of East Bay Dish. Her writing has also been featured in East Bay Express, Berkeleyside, Oakland Magazine and Edible East Bay.
Christina Mitchell

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