In getting ready for my 5th anniversary, I went through the archives and found some unpublished content from 2009. It’s interesting to read the posts 5 years later and reflect on what’s happened between now and then.
A Taste of Africa served Cameroonian cuisine on Shattuck Avenue in Berkeley, but chef/owner Malong Pendar had to close the restaurant a few years ago. Fortunately, he was still popping up at the Ashby Flea Market, Room 389 and special events around town and I always made sure to get a plate. His food was so flavorful, consistent and satisfying, and I wish I had some right now! A couple months ago, I noticed an Indiegogo campaign explaining his financial struggles and asking for the community to come together and support. Lots of people donated and I’m not sure what happened next, but I really hope he’s doing well. Malong is such a talented cook and if you haven’t already tried his food, I hope you get an opportunity soon. This is the story of my first experience at Taste of Africa.
photo: Christina Mitchell
October 30, 2009: Malong Pendar, 36, has been serving Cameronian food at the Ashby Flea Market since 1991. In 1997, he set up his first restaurant on Adeline, and moved to his current location in 2006. I have no idea how I missed out, but for some reason I had never tasted his food until this week. It reminds me of the classics that come from my mom’s kitchen and the home cooking I ate during my semester in the Caribbean…with a twist.
It’s interesting because Yelpers seem to love it or hate it. Even though it was comforting to me, I can see how this restaurant might frustrate some people. It’s not about swanky ambiance. It’s not about efficient service. It’s about the food. The thing is, it feels more like going to a friend’s house than going to a restaurant. Here are 10 steps to having a good experience at Taste of Africa:
1. Assess your mood. If you’re in a hurry or in a picky mood, go somewhere else. But if you have time to relax and enjoy, this place is for you. 
2. Say “hi” to Malong, who might be cooking behind the counter. Have a seat and relax.
3. Be patient and get ready for a flavorful meal.
4. Order the vegetarian or meat combo or any specials that are available. Malong will come to your table to tell you about the food he made that day. Most people don’t even bother to read the menu because he doesn’t cook every dish every day.
5. Be patient. Trust me, the food is worth the wait. Taste of Africa is pretty much a one man operation. Sometimes he has help, but Malong cooks, waits on tables and busses the dishes. It might not take more than a few minutes to get your food. But if it takes longer, just relax.
vegetarian and meat combo
6. Take a deep breath and appreciate the intoxicating aroma coming from the plate in front of you. Then, go ahead and dig in. Just make sure you eat slow enough to actually taste the layered flavors. The flavor of garlic permeates through several dishes, but you won’t see any cloves because it’s pureed. You can taste it in Ewole (sauteed spinach), Nsoke (stewed black eyed peas), Ndole (peanut sauce served over jollof rice), Okra delight, Tomato Stew and the Traditional Meat Stew. Bitter leaf, which Malong grows himself, is also pureed and added to several dishes. Nkule (jumbo white sweet potatoes stewed in coconut milk) is so sweet you might not believe there’s no added sugar. The ripe plantains known as Sule Do Do, are fried until mahogany and crispy around the edges. All of the vegetable dishes are vegan, by the way.
7. If you like spicy food, say yes when Malong comes back around with a small bowl of maroon sauce. He’ll dab a tablespoon on the edge of your plate, but it’s pretty hot, so be careful. Just taste a drop to determine how much you want to mix into your food.
8. Order the Ginger Punch or Ginger Lemonade (whichever is available that day), only if you really love ginger. They are definitely refreshing, but you might be surprised how intensely the freshly pureed ginger warms the back of your throat.
9. Pace yourself. The portions are huge, so don’t be afraid to take the leftovers home.
10. Be flexible. Next time you visit, the food will be just as flavorful and comforting, but it will taste slightly different. It is home cooking, after all.
Christina Mitchell
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