photo: Christina Mitchell
Did you know that The Growler’s Arms opened last month on Park Boulevard? I was lucky enough to be invited for dinner, so I met a friend there one day last week. The former Marzano space had been transformed from a casual Italian spot into a more formal British restaurant and pub. It kind of looks like somebody’s study, doesn’t it?
photo: Christina Mitchell
The food was rustic, but elegant, and really thoughtful – it’s obvious there’s a lot of skill and creativity in the kitchen. If you’ve been to the restaurant already, I would encourage a return visit because I think they’ve adjusted the menu a bit.
photo: Christina Mitchell
The owners are Séamus and Shelley Mulhall who have experience working at Gary Danko, Boulevard, La Folie and Chez Panisse. Chef Brian Ventura is in charge of the food and he’s worked at Insalata’s (San Anselmo), Epic Roadhouse (San Francisco), Cavallo Point (Sausalito) and A16 (San Francisco).
photo: Christina Mitchell
After we ordered cocktails, the server dropped off some bread that had been made in house by the pastry chef. This wasn’t your average bread basket. This bread was fresh and fluffy and crusty, and a real treat for a carb lover like me. There were a couple slices of white and wheat, along with soft butter and sea salt, and it was so good we asked for more.
photo: Christina Mitchell
My friend ordered the light and fresh Marin Headlands Dungeness crab salad (with chicories, grapefruit, pomelo, and cara cara oranges, $13).
photo: Christina Mitchell
It was nice, but I liked my dish even more. The Warm Potato Salad (with duck cracklings and a 6-minute egg, $9) was creamy, gooey, crunchy and flavorful. I felt excited as I was eating this dish because it was new and familiar at the same time.
photo: Christina Mitchell
My friend really enjoyed her Wild Nettle Soup (topped with parsnips and crème fraîche, $8), which was light and creamy and green.
photo: Christina Mitchell
This was my first Bubble and Squeak experience, but according to Wikipedia, it’s basically leftover mashed potatoes and vegetables that have been formed into a patty and pan-fried. Apparently, the name comes from the sound it makes as it cooks. The version at The Growler’s Arms comes with smoked sturgeon, caviar and crème fraîche ($13), but it was kind of bland and forgettable.
photo: Christina Mitchell
For the main course, I ordered the Wood-fire oven Smoked Banger (with mashed potatoes and onion gravy, $22). A few months ago, I learned a little about what it takes to successfully make sausage, so I have a lot of respect for the chef. The casing had a great snap and the texture inside was lovely, but unfortunately, the smoke overpowered all of the other flavors. But those mashed potatoes? They were silky, buttery clouds of goodness.
photo: Christina Mitchell
My friend ordered the Devil’s Gulch Ranch bone-in pork chop (with broccoli di cicco, pink lady apples and scrumpy reduction, $29), which turned out to be a real stunner. It tasted like it had been brined with a combination of spices, and their essence remained in the perfectly cooked chop. And that glorious layer of fat…
photo: Christina Mitchell
We couldn’t finish the entrees, but that didn’t stop us from ordering dessert. The server, who was awesome by the way, boxed everything up with the extra bread and we decided to try the Growler’s Mess (with grapefruit segments and St. Germain, $9). It was their version of a seasonal Eton Mess and it was fun to eat, because some bites were crunchy and others were creamy.
We had a great time and really enjoyed the food, which was prepared with creativity and integrity. I just wish we had remembered to order a Pork Pie ($10) to go.
4214 Park Blvd, Oakland
510-328-1315
Christina Mitchell
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Wow, I did not know that Marzano is no longer there and this neat little place is there now! I’ll definitely need to try this place; decor looks neat and the food looks yummy!
Let me know what you think when you go!
That pork chop. Mmm! I am loving the photos you took!
Thanks, girl. I’m learning every day!
I went and tried the gastropub this past Saturday, and boy was it crowded! I love the added touch of the salt on the bread they brought, and the meat cold cuts were a tasty prelude to the rabbit sausage and leg that I liked a lot. And I had the Growler’s Mess for dessert as well!
Awesome. Sounds really good!